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Tips and Tricks for hazzle-free
M-track turn-out operation
Golden Rule No. 1: Never clean turnouts with water!
Anyone who has used Märklin's 5200 and 5100 series electric turnouts knows that they can become sluggish or stop working altogether after installation. This is especially common with second-hand turnouts.
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In the video beside this article, you'll find all the maintenance procedures and troubleshooting methods you need to restore your turnouts to perfect working condition.
Check Turnouts Before Buying
The basic rule is to buy only equipment that both looks good and functions properly.
If the turnouts appear clean and well-preserved and still have the protective cover plate underneath, they can usually be adjusted and restored without much effort.
Worn, damaged, or warped turnouts, on the other hand, can be extremely difficult—sometimes almost impossible—to repair.
Small vs Large semaphore
I would also strongly advise against buying
turnouts equipped with the large semaphore signal. These semphors are too tall and can interfere with passing bogie coaches. The reason is that modern rolling stock
is generally more true-to-scale, with greater bogie overhang and more detailed underframe components.
Large vs small semaphore
A key factor in a successful model railroad is ensuring that trains run smoothly without annoying power interruptions or short circuits. Equally important is that turnouts operate flawlessly and that trains do not derail or lose cars because of poorly maintained track, or incorrectly designed grades, platforms, or tunnel portals.
I do NOT recommend using M-rail crossings (#5137 and #5207) and 3-way turnouts (#5214) designing new layouts. There are a many issues with the crossings and 3-way turnouts which cannot be fixed. Instead design your layout using 5202 and 5137. Every trackwork can be built anyway, even though it will take up a bit more space.
Use separate power to the lamps in the turnouts
If you´re building a digital system I would advise you to separate the lamp power from the power to the turnout motor (solenoid).
This is made by de-soldering the yellow cable to the center contact of the lamp, bypassing it directly to the turnout motor. Then solder another cable to the lamp center contact which is connected to
other AC- or DC power source. The power available in digital systems is limited and every ampere of power costs $$$. There are nowadays drop-in LED-replacement available for the M-rail turnouts,
but I assume that they will disappear from the market as M-rail system gets more rarely used in the future.
Replacement lamps for the turnouts
Turnout 5202, 5207 use the same lamp: #60000
Replacement springs for the turnout motor
Turnout 5202, 5207 use: #E353080
Schematic difference between DC-wheel set and AC-wheel set
Modifying a 5207 Double Slip Switch for Rolling Stock with DC Wheelsets
Plastic guide pieces and strips of electrical tape make it possible to run DC wheelsets
Double slip switches save a great deal of space while also adding considerable operating interest to a model railroad. Since most parallel tracks built with Märklin metal track use a center-to-center spacing of 77.4 mm, the 5207 double slip switch naturally finds its way into many track plans. On my own layouts, the double slip switches are also among the most heavily used and frequently operated turnouts.
Perhaps that is why problems with new locomotives and rolling stock are often first discovered in this particular type of turnout. Many modern cars equipped with DC wheelsets can cause short circuits or operational issues when passing through a 5207. Fortunately, these problems can usually be solved with a few simple modifications, such as adding plastic guide pieces and strategically placing small pieces of electrical tape. With these adjustments, the turnout can often be made fully compatible with modern rolling stock while retaining its original appearance and functionality. With all this said, I myself decided to exclude all crossings on my last layout with M-tracks. Instead I built using only turnout 5202 and 5137. I´m very happy for that decision. It saved me lots of headache!
Known Problems with DC Wheelsets and Possible Solutions
1) Derailment, among others with Märklin locomotive 36859, caused by DC wheelsets
2) Alternative derailment point for locomotive 36859
3) Another possible derailment point for locomotive 36859
4) Electrical tape modification that solves the problem described in point 2).
Turnout 5207 with de-railment points marked.
Solving the Problems
By cutting additional guide rails from a suitable sheet of black plastic and then clipping or gluing them into the turnout as shown in the illustration,
the wheelsets receive improved guidance toward the movable parts of the turnout. This prevents derailments from occurring.
For the issue shown in point 2, a small piece of electrical tape is applied to compensate for the larger back-to-back wheel spacing found on DC wheelsets.
This simple modification helps ensure reliable operation through the turnout and reduces the risk of derailments or short circuits.
Repairing and Adjusting the 5214 Three-Way Turnout
A sudden stop can be cured with a center contact plate
One of the problems that appeared when I converted to digital operation was that locomotives would come to an abrupt stop in the middle of the 5214 three-way turnout.
Using a small Mag-Lite flashlight and a careful inspection, I discovered that the locomotive's pickup shoe (center-contact slider) was missing the final center contact stud and therefore also
losing electrical contact with the track's center conductor. As a result, the locomotive temporarily lost power and stopped directly on the turnout.
Fortunately, the problem can be solved by installing a small center contact plate that bridges the gap and ensures continuous electrical pickup through the turnout.
This simple modification significantly improves reliability, especially for digital operation where uninterrupted power supply is essential.
3.5 × 3.5 × 0.5 mm Contact Plate
The problem can be solved by cutting a small metal plate to the correct size and soldering it onto the last center contact stud.
I made my plate from 0.5 mm copper sheet, but a piece of sheet metal cut from a tin can would probably work just as well. First, I cut out a square measuring 3.5 × 3.5 mm.
I then drilled a 1.5 mm hole in the center. After that, I rounded off the corners and slightly bent the entire plate so that the locomotive's pickup shoe could easily
ride up onto it without catching. This simple modification provides continuous electrical contact through the turnout and prevents locomotives from stalling on the three-way switch.
Soldering the Center Conductor
To ensure a reliable solder joint, I first sanded the surface of the center contact pin.
I then carefully applied a small amount of soldering flux to both the center contact pin and the underside and topside of the contact plate.
Next, I positioned the plate on top of the center contact and heated it for 3–5 seconds using a 35-watt soldering iron.
Once the metal had reached the proper temperature, I applied a suitable amount of solder and then removed the soldering iron.
This creates a strong electrical and mechanical connection while minimizing the risk of overheating or damaging the surrounding components.
Perfect — But Be Careful!
With the correct size of the metal plate, this modification works perfectly. Just be careful not to make the plate too large.
If it extends too far, it may short-circuit the wheel flanges of passing cars when they are being pulled through the turnout and the turnout is set to the diverging route.
Good luck!
/ Martin